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| Worth cutting up for tops? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=1847 |
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| Author: | RCoates [ Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:20 pm ] |
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Hi guys. This looks to be about 30 degrees off or less depending where you look. Is it worth making tops out of or not. I think it's redwood but has real tight grain looks more like cedar as far as grain. Any guesses? Suppose to be about 100 years old. Taken from a barn here locally. Any thoughts? 
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Sat Apr 30, 2005 2:55 pm ] |
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I could use it for ukes, but for a full size guitar I'd be wary.... but if it is real stiff then that would be the most important part I think... but normally off quarter is not stiff.... |
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| Author: | Mario [ Sat Apr 30, 2005 3:47 pm ] |
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Bracewood.... |
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| Author: | RCoates [ Sat Apr 30, 2005 4:26 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=Mario] Bracewood....[/QUOTE] I was afraid of that. Oh well. I have four or five more of these some are worse, maybe some are better. I'll have to look. |
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| Author: | Mario [ Sun May 01, 2005 1:38 am ] |
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They're not that far off quarter, but enough so. How's the runout? Do you know how to "read" it? When in doubt, they become back braces, side braces, laminated end blocks, etc... Lots of uses for it! |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Sun May 01, 2005 2:11 am ] |
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Looks like redwood to me. The only way to know if it is stiff enough is to resaw a slice and flex it. Off-quarter isn't necessarily a kiss of death, but an extremely good indicator. I've had some off-quarter wood that was equally as stiff as quartered wood. You never know. More than likely, it's bracewood etc, but you'll have to take the slice to know. |
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| Author: | Bob Steidl [ Sun May 01, 2005 3:56 am ] |
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As Don suggests, the degree of quarter is not a good predictor of stiffness; stability, yes. Runout would be my concern too. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Sun May 01, 2005 5:34 am ] |
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if anything i'm more critical of bracewood having run out and being off quarter then top wood. given the alternating fluctuations in the grain widths shown in the photos it doesn't appear to be cosmetically what you would want on an instrument built for sale anyway. ; ; ; ; ; if you are wanting to use it for experimentation or prototypes or similar uses, why not. |
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| Author: | Mario [ Sun May 01, 2005 5:42 am ] |
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if anything i'm more critical of bracewood having run out and being off quarter then top wood. Of course, but these can split nicely, dead-on quarter, and they are thick enough to split both directions, as long as the runout isn't crazy. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Sun May 01, 2005 5:53 am ] |
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granted, but i based my comment on the boards appearance of being only about 1" thick at most, and thus when split and squared would only give 1/2" or so, rather low braces. if my perception of the thickness is off then the resulting brace stock might be thicker, or thinner, as the case might be. |
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| Author: | RCoates [ Sun May 01, 2005 7:00 am ] |
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Michael you're right after spliting they would work for classical braces but steel string might be pushing it. Mario I like the alternate use ideas... And to Mario or anyone else; No I don't know how to read runout. I've read a few articles, but it still won't sink in (as in I don't have a freakin clue). If anyone would like to run a little online class I'll take a seat up front. 
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Sun May 01, 2005 10:13 am ] |
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I've seen Dana do it by taking a razor blade and sticking it in the end a tiny bit and then cranking on it to see which way the piece pulled up.. if at an angle then runout is bad if pretty straight then it is cool.... |
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